A guide to Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos.

Santa Cruz Island is one of the central hubs on the Galapagos islands for tourists. Most cruises start from Puerta Ayeora, the main town on the island, and for tourists travelling to the archipelago themselves, it is the central point for ferries to other islands. Santa Cruz is the second-largest island in the archipelago, and its main town, Puerta Ayeora, is the largest town on all of the islands. Not only is Santa Cruz the central hub, but it is a popular tourist destination in its own right, with a variety of attractions and activities for visitors.

Here are some of the highlights of Santa Cruz that we think you should not miss.

#1: Charles Darwin Research Station.

If you are visiting Santa Cruz, one of the best places to start your adventure is the Charles Darwin Research Station. This is where you can learn about the amazing wildlife and natural history of the Galapagos Islands, and see how scientists and conservationists are working to protect and restore them. The research station is easy to reach from Puerta Ayeora, either by walking or cycling. There, you can explore the exhibits and displays of the native plants and animals, and discover how they evolved and adapted to the unique environment of the Galapagos.

One thing to note if you are planning to visit, is that you need to pay a $10 fee for a local guide who will accompany you around the center. This is a new rule that was introduced in 2021. You will find a small kiosk on the way to the center, where you will meet your guide and pay the fee. You can choose between English or Spanish speaking guides. Having a guide is definitely worth it, as they can explain a lot more about the research and conservation work that is done at the center, and answer any questions you might have. We learned a lot from our guide, and we definitely enjoyed the tour more than if we had just walked around by ourselves.

You can also visit the Fausto Llerena tortoise breeding center, where they care for and breed the endangered giant tortoises. You can see the tortoise eggs, babies, and the adult tortoises that live in captivity. You can also pay your respects to Lonesome George, the last of his kind. He was a Pinta Island tortoise who died in 2012, marking the extinction of his species. His body was preserved and sent to New York, and now he is back in the research station, in a special room where you can see him.

#2: Tortuga Bay

This is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Galapagos, located about 2.5 km (1.5 mi) from Puerto Ayora. Its a short walk from the town to the entry point of the trail, where you will get a briefing on the rules, and sign your name in the visitors book. Then you walk along a path through a forest of mangroves and cactus’. You can walk or bike to the beach, where you will find white sand, clear blue water, and abundant wildlife. You can see marine iguanas, sea turtles, pelicans, and sharks in the mangroves of the bay.

The first part of Tortuga Bay you arrive at is Playa Brava, a long stretch of beach with white sand and huge waves hitting the shore. It seems like the perfect location to surf! You will spot hundreds of iguanas relaxing in the sun on your walk along the beach. Be careful not to step on any! Up in the sand dunes you might even spot some turtle egg nests in the sand dunes, depending on the time of year. However be sure not to touch them. There are many signs along the dunes reminding you! One of the rules when you arrive on the Galapagos is to be sure to stay 2 meters away from the wildlife.

As you get to the end of Playa Brava, you will reach a calm little lagoon called Playa Mansa where you can swim, snorkel or Kayak. You can rent a kayak at the beach, and snorkels at one of the many tour shops back in Puerta Ayeora.

To get back to town you can either walk back the way you came, or you can take a water taxi from Playa Mansa. The last taxi leaves at 5pm. Do note however that the National Park closes at 6pm, so if you are planning to walk back, take the journey time into account.

#3: Bay Tour

Taking a bay tour around the island is a great way to see some outstanding spots around the coast of Santa Cruz. The first stop on our tour was a snorkeling spot where we spotted some majestic turtles swimming around, and schools of fish. The currents can be quite strong in these open water snorkel spots, so if you are not a confident swimmer, like me, I would suggest wearing your life vest in the water to make your experience more enjoyable. I learned the hard way and spent my time holding on to Lee for dear life!

The main stop off on this tour is to Las Gritas, breathtaking swimming pools created by lava fissures, perfect for a dip in the crystal blue waters to cool off. On the walk there from the docks you go through some amazing landscapes, from beach, to cactus forest, to fields of lava and old salt mines. Even the walk there is worth the trip. Las Gritas pools are a very popular tourist spot on Santa Cruz, so expect the pools to be busy! If you’re looking to get that perfect instagram photo, get there early,

You can also visit Las Gritas by yourself, without booking on to a tour, by getting a water taxi from the port in Puerta Ayeora to Finch Bay, and from there follow the signs for Las Gritas, which is about a 15-20min walk. You need to pay a $10 for a tour guide to Las Gritas, just like at the Charles Darwin Research Station. If you go as part of a tour, this fee is already included.

After Las Gritas, the Bay tour will then take on the boat over to Canal de Tiburones, where you might see some sharks in the waters below from the viewpoint, depending on the weather. We were unlucky on our visit and didn’t see any! You will then continue down to the stunning Canal del Amor. The colour of the water here is breathtaking! The tour guide will then bring you across to Playa de los Perros (Beach of the dogs), but don’t get too excited, there are no dogs there. It’s actually named after a type of crab on the island (according to our guide). Here you will find hundreds of Marine Iguanas lying on the lava formed rocks, soaking up the sun.

#4: Puerta Ayeora

There are many things to do and see in the town of Puerta Ayeora itself, from trying out the many restaurants around town, to a strolling down the pier in search for lazy sealions getting some rest. If you go down at night time, you might even spot some white tipped reef sharks gracefiaround the shallow waters.

#5 The Highlands

The highlands of Santa Cruz are somewhere we didn’t get time to explore but are said to be a contrast to the coastal areas, with lush green vegetation, misty forests, and volcanic features. You can explore the highlands by bus, car, bike, and visit some beautiful sites including:

• Los Gemelos: These are two large sinkholes that were formed by the collapse of a magma chamber. They are surrounded forest. The perfect spot for an avid birdwatcher.

• Lava Tunnels: These are underground passages that were created by the flow of lava. Some of them are large enough to walk through, and you can see the different shapes and colors of the lava formations.

• El Chato Tortoise Reserve: This is a private reserve where you can see wild giant tortoises roaming freely in their natural habitat.

Santa Cruz Island is a place where you can begin to experience the beauty of the Galapagos, both on land and in the water. It is also a place where you can learn about the conservation efforts and challenges that the Galapagos faces, and how you can contribute to its preservation. The island is a must-see destination for anyone who visits the Galapagos, and you will surely have a memorable and enjoyable time there.